Assuming it’s not a direct-swap due to alternator output issues, but wondering if anyone has tried upgrading their AGMs to LiFePO4. Also, did it help the port-side lean?
Yes I’m now running a 300ah one as the house, I kept the opti start batteries.
To eliminate the acr, etc I am using 2 Victron DC/DC chargers which charge the house bank when the engines are running.
Happy to share more details if helpful, it helped the lean but not by much.
Had no idea that was a slight cause of tilt to port!
This is what I received from Dakota Lithium, an online retailer specializing in high performance li-ion batteries. I’m repowering with new Honda 225s and want to switch over to all LFP batteries and hopefully not touch anything for 10 years, LOL:
Hello Jake,
Thanks for sending the link.
Either of the batteries mentioned earlier would be great for your motors.
12v 60Ah 1000CCA - 9.5”L x 6.9” W x 7.44” H (242.5mm x 176mm x 189 mm) 16.5 lbs (7.5 Kg). Group 24 equivalent. Can charge from an alternator 80A or smaller 144 minutes RC @ 25A
12v 135Ah 1000CCA - 9.5”L x 6.9” W x 8.24” H (242.5mm x 176mm x 197 mm) 27.2 lbs (12.3 Kg).Group 24 equivalent. Can charge from an alternator 150A or smaller
The 12v 60Ah 1000CCA batteries are in stock and ready to ship. The 12v 135Ah 1000CCA batteries should be ready to ship mid to late March.
Both batteries are dual purpose cranking and deep cycle and can do both.
If you want a backup battery that can start an engine, you might consider the Powerbox 60.
It is portable and comes in a box that floats. It has a 300W inverter so you can power A/C devices or charge electronics.
It is only $50 more than just the battery: Dakota Lithium Powerbox+ 60
Interesting… @Theleafblowerguy - that email make it sounds like they were suggesting it would be a simple swap. My (very limited) understanding is that the old Honda style alternators aren’t very compatible with direct connection to LifePO4 as it can suck down a lot of current and cause the alternators to overheat and die. Also with all LifePO4 - if the battery BMS stops accepting current - the alternator has nowhere to send it and so can blow the diodes.
One fix is a house only LifePO4 with a BMS so the engines still charge the AGM starters and the BMS manages DC-DC charging of the house (I think this is @05rbs 's setup? )
@05rbs did you figure out a way to go all LifePO4 with the engine batteries also?
You are correct, I’m running agms for the start batteries, my understanding is you can run all lithium but would need a life4po regulator for the alternator which is how bigger boats charge the main bank. On Sea Bear we have a few hundred amp alternator controlled by a wakespeed that charges the main bank running a specific charge profile.
For now I’d go with just the house, very little reason to do the start batteries.
Well, an 11 year warranty would be one reason to switch…
I don’t know if they will give you that on a start battery, if you read the warranty they don’t advertise full life for the 11 years.